The Kitiki MiniKiln
prometheus pro-1 instructions or more small kilns at electrickilns.co.uk or larger kilns at paragonkilns.co.uk
start
clays
materials
tools
support
extras
sales
UK To EU Plug Adapter.
Ceramic Block.
Ceramic Cloth.
EU Plug.
UK-EU Adapter.
Dry Powder Extinguisher.
Glare Resistant Glasses.
HEPA Mask.
Heat Resistant Gloves.
Kitiki Cutters.
Kitiki Flush Cutters.
Kitiki Flat-Nose Pliers.
Kitiki Pointed-Nose Pliers.
Kitiki Bent-Nose Pliers.
Kitiki Round-Nose Pliers.
Protective Glasses.
Potter & Brumfield Relay.
Dorset, SW England.
UK 13A Plug.
The AX-4 Digital Controller.
MiniKiln Closed.
Prometheus Pro-7.
Bartlett-Paragon Touch Screen Digital Controller.
Paragon BlueBird Bead Annealing Kiln.
Lauscha by Carrie Fertig.
Activated Charcoal Granules.
Paragon Caldera Digital Ceramics Kiln.
Paragon Caldera Digital Bead Kiln.
Paragon Fusion CS14D Glass Kiln.
Paragon Fusion CS14SB Glass And Bead Kiln.
Paragon Caldera XL Ceramics Kiln.
Paragon FireFly A Ceramics Kiln.
Paragon Fusion 7 Glass Kiln.
Paragon Fusion 8 Glass Kiln.
Paragon GL18ADTSD Glass Kiln.
Paragon HT-14D Heat Treating Furnace.
Paragon Janus 1613 Ceramics Kiln.
Paragon KM18D Knife Making Oven.
Paragon-Orton Vent Master: Unassembled.
Paragon-Orton Vent Master: Suction Cup.
Paragon Pearl 18 Glass Kiln.
Paragon PMT21 Heat Treating Kiln.
Stainless Steel Pans.
Paragon SC-2 Black Jewellery Kiln.
Paragon SC2 Jewellery Kiln.
Paragon SC2B Bead-Door Kiln.
Paragon SC2W Enamelling Kiln.
Paragon SC4 Glass Kiln.
Paragon SC2BW Jewellery And Bead Kiln.
Paragon SC2D Pro-3 Jewellery Kiln.
Paragon SC2 Shelf Kit.
Paragon SC-2 Jade Jewellery Kiln.
Paragon SC-2 Black Jewellery Kiln.
Orton-Paragon Sentry Xpress Digital Programmer.
Orton-Paragon Sentry Digital Programmer.
Bartlett-Paragon Sentinel Touch-Screen Controller.
Paragon SC-2 Pink Jewellery Kiln.
Paragon SC-2 Pro Black Jewellery Kiln.
Paragon SC-2 Turqoise Jewellery Kiln.
Paragon SC-2 Purple Jewellery Kiln.
Paragon SC-2 Navy Jewellery Kiln.
Paragon SC-2 Berry Jewellery Kiln.
Paragon ST-8 Kiln Table.
Paragon ST-8 Kiln Table With Casters.
Paragon TNF 1613 Ceramics Kiln.
Paragon GL24 Kiln Table.
Paragon Xpress 1613 Top Row Of Bricks.
USB Plug.
Paragon Xpress E-12A Jewellery Kiln.
Paragon Xpress E-12AB Bead Kiln.
Paragon Xpress E-14 Glass Kiln.
Paragon Xpress Q-11A Ceramics Kiln.
Paragon F500 Lampwork Kiln.
Kitiki MiniKiln Pro-1 For Jewellery, Dichroics, Enamelling, And Glass Work

The Kitiki MiniKiln.

The Prometheus Kitiki Mini-Kiln Pro-1 is generally used for metal clays, enamelling, and glass fusing, although it has other applications. It's a low-cost, 1000°C, rectangular, front-opening, plug-in, table-top, ceramic-fibre kiln, with an AX4 4-key digital controller.


It's typically used for making jewellery, annealing beads and glass, painting china, applying decals, dental work, fusing dichroic glasses, enamelling, fire polishing, glass art, glass casting, fusing, sagging, and slumping, glass clays, heat treating, knife making, laboratory testing, lamp-work, lost-wax casting, low-fire ceramics, melting gold and silver, firing bronze and copper metal clays, moulding gun and model parts, pâte de verre, sintering gold and silver clays, staining glass, hardening and tempering blades, cutters, dies, and tools, and many other materials and processes.

Smaller kilns are more economic for jewellery-making, so you can use most popular small-scale materials such as Accent Gold, Art Clay metal clays, BullsEye glasses, dichroic glasses, enamels, GlasClay, Image Transfer Solution, Metal Clay Veneer, PMC silver clay, Prometheus bronze clay, ProCopper clay, and SilverEtch.
And there's an increasingly diverse range of other metal clays, such as Cinter, Clay Mania, Creative, Goldie, Hadar Jacobson, Metal Adventures, Meteor, Noble, and PMC Sterling.


There's a recommended shelf, included in the price: one ceramic-fibre shelf 75mm x 118mm x 6mm for metal clays, enamels, and glass.

There's an extra recommended kit, not included in the price: one ceramic-fibre shelf 75mm x 118mm x 6mm and four 25mm shelf posts. You can buy extra shelf kits in the on-line shop.

Depending on the material or process, and the sizes of your pieces, stacked shelves will hold more work, free up your time, and reduce the unit firing cost: so you might want more kits. This kiln has room for two.

For enamelling and glass fusing, you'll need to put kiln paper on the shelf to stop anything sticking: it's simpler and cleaner to use than glass separator.

PRINTING THE INSTRUCTIONS

Printing The Instructions.

SETTING UP YOUR MINI-KILN

Setting-Up The Kitiki MiniKiln.

Set up your Mini-Kiln in a well-ventilated room, on a heat-resistant surface, at least 300mm away from any inflammable doors, walls, cupboards, or curtains.

If the room is protected by a fire-prevention sprinkler system, don't position the kiln under a heat-sensitive sprinkler: it might come on, triggered by natural rising heat, and flood the room.

Don't keep any volatile materials, such as paints, solvents, oils, or petrol, in the same room. Some vapours, or even clouds of very fine dust, can ignite easily and explode.

Some organic materials, such as Art Clay Cork Clay, burn during firing and traces of smoke will come out of the door vent and from around the door. Your kiln room needs to have ventilation.

Wherever you use your Kitiki Mini-Kiln, you'll need somewhere to put hot shelves, such as on a ceramic-fibre block or in a tray of vermiculite particles.

ELECTRICAL

Power Supply And Safety.

Kilns made outside the UK have been re-engineered to work on a single-phase 230V-240V mains supply. They've been comprehensively tested to meet the demanding CE standard in the EU.

UK voltage used to be 240V and European used to be 220V. The EU decided to harmonise the voltage to 230V, but the implementation costs were too high for almost no real benefit. So, to appear harmonised, the legal voltage limits were changed to 230V, but within the range 216V-253V. Generally, in the UK, 240V is a reliable average.

One accurate long-term test showed a cycle occurring daily between Monday and Friday. The voltage at night rose to around 242V. During office hours, the voltage dropped to about 235V, probably due to manufacturing, transport, and offices increasing the load on the National Grid. During the weekend, the voltage was generally around 240V and did not show the daily fluctuations.

The elements in ceramic-fibre kilns are safely embedded in the fibre. The elements in firebrick kilns are turned off by a legally-necessary lid or door safety switch. However, never get careless: kilns are very hot and connected to the mains.


Your Mini-Kiln is rated at 230V 700W, so will draw about 3A. Any kiln with a rating of less than 3000W can use a regular mains socket. However, circuits are not designed to power a kiln and lots of heating devices such as washing machines, dishwashers, kettles, and convector heaters.

It's quite common for light bulbs to pop just as you turn them on due to a higher-than-usual initial power surge. If your kiln is on a shared fuse, anything that pops the fuse will turn off your kiln. So, ideally, put your kiln on a separate pop-up fuse.

Don't use a multi-way adaptor or an extension lead unless it's absolutely necessary. Extension leads should never be used coiled or whilst on a drum as heat will build up. Make sure that you don't have loose cables where you walk.

As with all electrical equipment, don't get the kiln wet and don't touch it with wet hands. Although some kilns have a built-in safety cut out, all equipment in a work environment should plug into an electronic safety-trip adapter, sometimes called an RCD.

Always unplug the kiln when it's not in use, or if you move it, clean it, or service it.

UK SAFETY REGULATIONS

Safety And Public Liability.

It'll be too late to think about safety practices and equipment after an accident. Apart from kiln accessories, the on-line shop includes heat resistant ceramic blocks and cloths, digital reminder-timers, fire extinguishers, heat-resistant gloves, and glare-resistant glasses.

It's important to have your fire extinguisher near your kiln. Read the instructions as soon as you unpack it, learn how to treat burns, buy a basic first aid kit, and fit a smoke alarm.


For private home use, check your building and contents insurance for relevant exclusions. For business use, you'll need public liability insurance and will have to comply with health and safety regulations.

Businesses and course providers might have to get change-of-use planning consent for proposed building changes and provide staff training, safety glasses, fire extinguishers, first-aid materials, disabled access, a bathroom, and fire exits.

WORKSHOP SAFETY

Safety And Public Liability.

Don't let the temperature of your workshop exceed 40°C: keep a window open or use an extractor fan. Don't leave your kiln unattended whilst firing.

Wear protective glasses when you look into a hot kiln, and wear thick work gloves when moving a hot kiln, or when loading or unloading: unless you know the kiln is at room temperature.

If you're using a tool to lift out the shelf, make sure it's wide enough to stop the shelf, and your work, falling off. Stainless steel BBQ fish turners are usually OK: teflon coated ones will burn.

Don't let unsupervised children into your workshop or studio.

Never put insulation around a kiln to try to conserve energy: the programmer and the wiring will overheat, and may burn out.

Don't fire any materials unless you know how they behave at high temperatures. Some may release poisonous fumes, explode, or corrode the thermocouple.

The paint will gradually discolour around the door, particularly if you open it whilst the inside is still hot. This is normal.

BEFORE STARTING

The AX-4 And MX-4 Digital Controllers.

MiniKilns sold after 18 August 2011 have an AX-4 programmer. Make sure you use the correct instructions.

As with any programmable device, don't just press keys at random to 'see what happens'. You may turn on a feature you don't want, change °C to °F, or begin a factory testing or diagnostic sequence.

USING THE MINIKILN

Using The MiniKiln.

Never fire anything on the bottom of the firing chamber, particularly as glaze or enamelling drips can be absorbed into the ceramic fibre and ruin the element: use a fibre cloth, a ceramic fibre shelf, or some other suitable material.

If you use a ceramic-fibre blanket, pull it into pieces to support delicate work. Don't put it in whole, as it might partially insulate the thermocouple leading to a temperature higher than the set temperature.

To make sure you work safely, turn the kiln OFF before opening the door. Put the objects to be fired on the cloth or shelf, put them in the kiln, and shut the door.

If you're working with glass, dichroic glass, or enamels, use kiln paper on the shelf to give a smooth surface and stop your work sticking.

If you open the kiln whilst it's heating, even for a short time, the temperature of the firing chamber will fall and show up on the display. Some materials will fracture if the temperature changes suddenly.

SETTING THE TARGET TEMPERATURE USING THE AX-4 PROGRAMMER

The AX-4 Digital Controller.

The AX-4 Digital Controller

The Main Switch, on the right-hand side of the front fascia, has three positions: DISPLAY, OFF, and HEATER. Always start programming with the Main Switch OFF.

The digital controller, on the left-hand side of the front fascia, has two rows of four characters and four keys. The left-hand key sets the MODE. The next, the LEFT arrow key, selects the digit in the lower row that you want to change; and the last two, the DOWN and UP arrow keys, let you decrease or increase the selected digit.

Set the Main Switch to DISPLAY and wait for the display to settle. The digital controller's four upper digits show the current temperature in °C and the four lower digits show the target temperature. If the kiln has been off for some time, the current temperature should be the room temperature.

To set the target temperature:

1 Hold the MODE key down for two seconds: you'll see SU in the upper line.
2 Press the LEFT key once: you'll see the right-hand digit of the number in the lower line flashing.
3 Leave it as it is, or set the digit by pressing the UP or DOWN arrow keys.
4 Move the flashing to the next digit left by pressing the LEFT arrow key, and set the digit.
5 Continue left until all the digits are set and the lower line shows the target temperature.
6 Hold the MODE key for two seconds. SU will be replaced by the current temperature.
6 Set the Main Switch to HEATER. Your Mini-Kiln will start to heat up.

The upper digits will show the increasing internal temperature. When the MiniKiln reaches the target temperature, it will just stay at the target temperature until you turn it off: the hold time is up to you. The AX-4 does not have a ramp function.

SETTING THE TARGET TEMPERATURE USING THE MX-4 PROGRAMMER

The MX-4 Digital Controller.

The Main Switch, on the right-hand side of the front fascia, has three positions: DISPLAY, OFF, and HEATER. Always start programming with the Main Switch OFF.

The Programmer, on the left-hand side of the front fascia, has two rows of four characters and a flip-down key-cover lid. Under the lid are four keys. There may be some thin protective film over the keys which can be removed.

The left-hand key sets the MODE. The next, the LEFT arrow key, selects the digit in the lower row that you want to change; and the last two, the DOWN and UP arrow keys, let you decrease or increase the selected digit.

Set the Main Switch to DISPLAY and wait for the display to stop flashing. The Programmer's four upper digits show the current temperature in °C and the four lower digits show the target temperature. To set the target temperature:

1 Set the Main Switch to DISPLAY and wait for the display to stop flashing.
2 Open the lid and press the MODE key once: you'll see the right-hand digit of the number in the lower line flashing.
3 Leave it as it is, or set the digit by pressing the UP or DOWN arrow keys.
4 Move the flashing to the next digit left by pressing the LEFT arrow key, and set the digit.
5 Continue left until all the digits are set and the display shows the target temperature.
6 Press the MODE key once. Switch the Main Switch to HEATER and your Mini-Kiln will start to heat up.
STARTING TO HEAT

Most heating devices release traces of smoke and may smell when used the first few times. As the ceramic-fibre firing chamber expands and contracts, tiny cracks may appear: these are normal and harmless, and will not affect the firing.

It's unlikely, but some types of silica, silica compounds, and reduction firing, can corrode high temperature elements. Refer to the instructions for the materials you're using.

THE HOLD TIME

When the target temperature is reached, the programmer will maintain that temperature by turning the elements on and off. However, the hold time is your responsibility: use a cooking timer or an alarm clock. You can buy a digital timer in the on-line shop. For hold times, refer to the instructions for the materials you're using.

Although kilns have a maximum rated temperature, they're not designed to be run at that temperature continuously.

Don't go out, or go to bed, without making sure that your Mini-Kiln is off and unplugged.

UNLOADING THE KILN

Using the Main Switch, turn your Mini-Kiln off. Unless you let the kiln cool to room temperature, put on protective glasses and work gloves before opening the door.

Take the shelf out, with the fired object still on it, and close the kiln door. Leave it on a heat-resistant surface and let it cool.

ENABLING THE RAMP FUNCTION USING THE MX-4 PROGRAMMER

The Mini-Kiln, out of the box, is easy and quick to use: it heats to a set temperature and stays there until you turn it off. For most people doing small scale work, that's enough so, to keep it simple, the Ramp Function has not been enabled. Don't enable it unless you need it, although you can disable it later.

A Ramp Function lets you choose how fast the Mini-Kiln heats up or cools down. As examples: it can heat up to 800°C over 75 minutes, or cool down from hot to room temperature over 180 minutes.

To enable the Ramp Function:

1 Set the Main Switch to DISPLAY and wait for the display to stop flashing.
2 Press the MODE key for 3 seconds: you'll see P in the upper row.
3 Press the MODE key for 3 seconds: you'll see AL-1 in the upper row.
4 Press the MODE key for 3 seconds: you'll see SL-H in the upper row.
5 Press the MODE key 3 times: you'll see LoC in the upper row.
6 Change 0000 to 1000, as described previously.
7 Press MODE and, whilst it's down, press LEFT for 5 seconds: you'll see PSYS in the upper row.
8 Press the MODE key 4 times: you'll see SL-3 in the upper row.
9 Change 1111 to 0111, as described previously, and press the MODE key once.
10 Set the Main Switch to OFF. The Ramp Function is now enabled.
THE RAMP FUNCTION USING THE MX-4 PROGRAMMER
1 Set the Main Switch to DISPLAY and wait for the display to stop flashing.
2 Press the MODE key for 3 seconds: you'll see RAMP in the upper row.
3 Adjust 0000 to any value between 0000 and 0540, the number being the number of minutes it
will take to reach the target temperature. 0000 is full on, not 0 minutes. 0540 is six hours. Set
the Main Switch to OFF.
4 Set the Main Switch to HEATER and wait for the display to stop flashing.
5 Press the MODE key once: you'll see SA1 in the upper row.
6 Set your target temperature, as previously described, and press the MODE key once.

The programmer will turn the heating elements on and off so that the kiln reaches the set temperature in the set time.

EXAMPLE 1: HEAT UP TO 650° IN 90 MINUTES
1 Set the Main Switch to DISPLAY and wait for the display to stop flashing.
2 Press the MODE key for 3 seconds: you'll see RAMP in the upper row.
3 Set the display to 0090, as previously described, and set the Main Switch to OFF.
4 Set the Main Switch to HEATER and wait for the display to stop flashing.
5 Press the MODE key for 3 seconds: you'll see SR1 in the upper row.
6 Set the display for 650°C, as previously described, and press the MODE key once.

Remember that for full on, set the time to 0000. If you choose a low time, such as 0005 minutes, the kiln can't heat that quickly even if it's full on.

EXAMPLE 1: COOL DOWN TO ROOM TEMPERATURE IN 360 MINUTES
1 Set the Main Switch to DISPLAY and wait for the display to stop flashing.
2 Press the MODE key for 3 seconds: you'll see RAMP in the upper row.
3 Set the time to 0360, as previously described, and set the Main Switch to OFF.
4 Set the Main Switch to HEATER and wait for the display to stop flashing.
5 Press the MODE key for 3 seconds: you'll see SR1 in the upper row.
6 Set the temperature to 0000, as previously described, and press the MODE key once.

Remember, 0000 is effectively off, not 0°C. You could set it to any temperature below room temperature.

DISABLING THE RAMP FUNCTION USING THE MX-4 PROGRAMMER
1 Set the Main Switch to DISPLAY and wait for the display to stop flashing.
2 Press the MODE key for 3 seconds: you'll see P in the upper row.
3 Press the MODE key for 3 seconds: you'll see AL-1 in the upper row.
4 Press the MODE key for 3 seconds: you'll see SL-H in the upper row.
5 Press the MODE key 3 times: you'll see LoC in the upper row.
6 Change 0000 to 1000, as described previously.
7 Press MODE and, whilst it's down, press LEFT for 5 seconds: you'll see PSYS in the upper row.
8 Press the MODE key 4 times: you'll see SL-3 in the upper row.
9 Change 0111 to 1111, as described previously, and press the MODE key once.
10 Set the Main Switch to OFF. The Ramp Function is now disabled.
KILN CARE

When your Mini-Kiln is at room temperature, and unplugged, clean the outside with a damp cloth. Don't use detergents, alcohol, solvents, or abrasives.

The Mini-Kiln's heating element is safely embedded in the ceramic-fibre firing chamber. Ceramic fibre is not as strong as firebricks, so don't touch it with sharp tools.

When your kiln is at room temperature, and unplugged, clean out any tiny scraps or dust with a soft brush or a mini-vacuum. If anything has got stuck to the inner surfaces, scrape it away carefully with a knife.

THE THERMOCOUPLE

Inside the ceramic-fibre firing chamber, a heat-sensitive thermocouple, connected to the digital controller, projects into the back of the firing space. It's unlikely but, if you accidentally push it back, it won't give accurate readings and the kiln may overheat.

So, before firing, make it a habit to check that the tip of the thermocouple extends into the firing chamber by about 10mm.

AUTO-TUNING THE KILN

Set the programmer's target temperature for one you use regularly: for example, 800C. With the Main Switch in the HEATER position, press the MODE and UP keys together: you'll see the AT light flashing. Auto-tuning takes about half an hour. When the light stops flashing, the kiln will have recalibrated itself. Don't open the door until it's finished.

Most kilns are not very accurate at low temperatures because the elements are being turned on and off depending on the ramp rate. It's called thermal over-ride.

FIRING CHARACTERISTICS

How Electric Kilns Work.

Generally, programmable kilns work like this: as soon as the programmer's sequence starts, the kiln begins to heat up. The thermocouple tells the programmer the current temperature and, depending on the sequence you've chosen, the programmer turns the elements on or off to control the heating or cooling rate and, eventually, maintain the target temperature. When the sequence is complete, the kiln beeps.

When the target temperature is reached, the programmer switches the elements off. However, residual heat in the firing chamber allows the internal temperature to overshoot the target temperature briefly before starting to fall back.

This overshoot is more noticeable at low temperatures than at high temperatures. For example: 300°C will probably overshoot to 310°C whereas 800°C will probably only overshoot to 805°C before starting to fall back.

During the hold-time, with the elements still off, the temperature falls. When the programmer switches the elements back on, the firing chamber will initially absorb some of the new heat before the temperature recovers. The continual switching of the elements on and off causes the internal temperature to cycle around the target temperature.

Regardless of the thermocouple temperature, the actual temperature of your work will be slightly different, depending on its position on the kiln shelf, the vertical spacing of any stacked shelves, and its nearness to the elements, a lid, a door, a bead door, a window, or a peephole. Learn to take it into account if you're working with temperature-critical materials or processes.


Remember that glass needs radiant heat and will fuse, sag, or slump better on one shelf at the bottom than between closely stacked shelves.


Kiln doors and lids are not meant to be a perfect fit otherwise, at high temperatures, there'd be no room for expansion and the door could stick and the ceramic-fibre or firebricks could crack.

All kilns smell a bit during the first few firings, just like a toaster or a fan heater. If you're worried about fumes, open a window.

Eventually, with normal use, kilns discolour slightly, inside and outside, and some firebricks might develop hairline cracks. Your kiln is a versatile, robust, red-hot tool: not an ornament.

KEEPING A KILN LOG

Keeping A Kiln Log.

Using your kiln successfully needs careful research and frequent tests, especially as things that work for your friends or teachers might not work in the same way for you. It's also very important to learn how to creatively use unexpected effects. So, keep a firing log:


Buy a durable notebook. Use a new page for every firing, and draw diagrams of the shelves, their vertical spacing, and the position of your work on the shelves. Along with your work, put a few scraps at different places on the shelves to learn how things fire or change. Describe the material, the shape of your work, the firing cycle, and the end result.

A kiln log is vital if you're experimenting with temperature-sensitive materials, or working with coloured dichroic glasses, enamels, glazes, or paints, and a skilled artist will use the kiln log to advantage to re-create effects.

It'll be particularly useful if you have to repeat a commission, or you have a long holiday before returning to your studio.



Art Clay UK. Cherry Heaven. Electric Kilns. Electric Tumblers. Euroversity. Kitiki. Learning English. Lucas Cameron. Mini Kiln. Oxford English. Oxford English Training. Paragon Kilns International. Paragon Kilns UK. Paragon Kilns DE. Paragon Kilns EU. Professor English. Prometheus Kilns.